We stayed at the Zane Grey RV Resort, just outside Camp Verde, in a site surrounded by trees and flowering shrubs. It was close to Montezuma’s Castle, a National Monument. Montezuma’s Castle is another example of an ancient ruin being misnamed when it was first discovered. Southern Sinagua farmers built the five-story, 20-room dwelling sometime between 1100 and 1300. It had its maximum occupation in the 1300s and was occupied for another century, then abandoned. We did a little birding there on a breezy day since it was relatively sheltered and beside a creek.

Here’s a view of our campsite, taken from the back of a vacant site across the road. The second photo is of the “castle” at Montezuma’s Castle NM.

 

We also visited the hillside community of Jerome. In the early 1900s, Jerome was a booming mining town of 15,000 perched on the mountainside. It was basically a ghost town by the 1960s. Hippies moved in in the 70s and now Jerome is a thriving community of 500 filled with shops, galleries and restaurants. We first visited the Jerome State Historic Park, in the preserved Douglas Mansion. The short video presentation about the history of Jerome was worth the price of admission. We then drove farther up to the main town and were lucky enough to get a parking spot.

Here’s a view of a partial building; behind it is a glass-blowing workshop. The Jerome Chamber of Commerce had some interesting displays in their little museum.

After being windy and cool, the weather improved enough for mountain biking and hiking. On Saturday, we drove up to Sedona (about 45 minutes) to hike to Cathedral Rock. There was no room in the parking lot when we got there at 9:00. We should have known better; hiking in Sedona is very popular. Luckily we consulted our hiking guidebook and map and found a “back way” in. (Baldwin trail to Templeton to Cathedral Rock trail) After half an hour of hiking, we were looking down at the jammed parking lot that we had first attempted to park. The climb up to the saddle was another half hour and was more of a scramble on slick rock than a hike. With some strategy, Doug was able to get his quintessential photo of Wendy near the edge. The photo doesn’t show how crowded it was. The route we took also allowed a great view back to Cathedral Rock in the afternoon light.

We enjoyed our lunch in a quiet spot near Oak Creek, very close to this vortex site. Vortex sites are places where some people believe energy crackles most intensely. And we had to include a cactus in bloom.

We got up earlier on Sunday and drove through to West Sedona and up to Boynton Pass Road and the Fay Canyon Trailhead. This trailhead was only just beginning to fill at 8:30 when we started our bike ride on the Aerie Trail. We made a loop around Doe Mountain and connected to the Cockscomb trail. The trail was a bit rocky but “rideable”, with the more technical sections at the beginning of the loop, and some nice flowy sections and fun “whoops” near the end.

Since we had already secured a parking spot, we walked across the road and hiked the short Fay’s Canyon trail. Highlights were seeing a rattlesnake up close (without consequences) and identifying a black-throated gray warbler.

Another day, we rode starting at the Bell Rock Trailhead and repeated most of a route that Wendy had ridden with friends a couple of years ago, when Doug was not yet able to get back on his bike. We rode up the Bell Rock Pathway and joined the Llama trail. We didn’t mind walking the canyon section of Little Horse. Then we cruised back via the Bell Rock Pathway.

Here are a couple of views from the Llama trail.

We found a hike that was closer to our RV park in Camp Verde and was also considered a “hotspot” for birding: West Clear Creek trail. The trail passes a popular swimming hole, where people can jump of the red rock cliffs into the deep pools. No photos of Wendy jumping in (we didn’t come to swim) but you could check out the “Bull Pen” swimming hole on-line if you’re interested. We did cross the creek twice; one crossing had mid-thigh water with a rocky bottom and luckily a gentle current. We saw some nice birds: our first really good look at an ash-throated flycatcher and a pair of summer tanagers were the highlights.

West Clear Creek has water in it all year and flows into the Verde River.

We travelled about half an hour northwest to Dead Horse Ranch State Park in Cottonwood, AZ to be on site for the Verde Valley Birding and Nature Festival. We both went on field trips for all four mornings of the festival. There were afternoon and evening sessions offered, but we were almost saturated with viewing birds from our morning sessions (about 45-55 species each day).

Here is our group at Travasci Marsh, reached by a trail system right in Dead Horse Ranch State park. The highlights of this trip were seeing a yellow-breasted chat and Bullock’s oriole.

We also had good bird viewing at our trailer. The previous campers at our site had sprinkled bird seed on the ground in the dirt beside the picnic table and between the bushes and brush. Our regular visitors were Gambel’s quail, green-tailed towhees, sparrows (Brewer’s, chipping, white-crowned, black-throated and lark), and house finches. One day as we were sitting out, a pair or northern cardinals flew into the nearby bushes. Doug was patient enough to capture these photos of the male (bright) and the female (with attitude!).

And there were always the hummingbirds. We purchased this cute window feeder at the Mesa market. Amazingly, the hummingbird’s tongue can reach to the end of the tube. We also had little verdin feeding from them. Here’s a black-throated hummingbird feeding outside our window of the trailer.

Here are some highlights of the birds we saw. A great blue heron in flight.

Male (red) and female (yellow) summer tanagers.

A male lazuli bunting and a male Bullock’s oriole.

We listened to chatter of the yellow-breasted chat on all four days until the last day when one finally showed itself. (left bird). The more drabber bird on the right is the ash-throated flycatcher, another bird that we heard more than we saw.

And here are a few LGJs “little gray jobs”. The gray flycatcher on the left is identifiable by it’s tail-wagging behaviour. The gray vireo (right bird) was more elusive, but Doug was quick enough to get this shot.

We had a great time birding at the Verde Valley Birding and Nature Festival. Each of our guides was knowledgeable, each had their own style and strength, and we learned and picked up things from them all. We visited four different birding locations: Montezuma Well, Sedona Wetlands, Bubbling Ponds Preserve IBA and Tavasci Marsh, all places that we will return to on our own when we come to this area again.

We are on our way home now and can hardly believe that we’ve been away for over six weeks. Our new fifth wheel feels like home and has met and exceeded our expectations. Stay tuned for our summer adventures in “Big Red.”

 

We found lots of things to do around Page, Arizona, and one of them was literally around Page. Page is situated up on a mesa and has a trail that circles the rim. We rode the ten mile (16 km) trail two times in our eight day stay. At one place the trail went between the fairways of the golf course and we had a very short section on pavement. Mostly the trail was on slick rock or rocky trail. We had good views of the Glen Canyon Dam and Lake Powell.

Here’s a photo of the Glen Canyon Dam from another day.

We stayed at Wahweap campground that is in the Glen Canyon Recreation Area. We had spectacular views from our spacious site.

Rainbow Bridge is an impressive natural bridge that can only be reached by boat or an overnight backpack of more than 20 miles. Since our long backpacking days are over, we opted for the boat. We sat on the open top deck for the hour and a half cruise, wearing plenty of layers in the morning chilly wind. When we got off the boat at the floating dock near Rainbow Bridge, we converted our pants to shorts by unzipping the legs and hiked the mile to the bridge in the baking hot sun.

Here are two views of Rainbow Bridge; the first one is as you approach it, and the second is from behind. We took a trail around to the other side of the bridge; no one is allowed to walk under the bridge since many of the indigenous people of the area consider it sacred.

The cruise through Lake Powell was also impressive: clear water, blue skies, red sandstone cliffs. The white “bathtub ring” on the rock shows Lake Powell’s highest level back in the early 80s.

Our daughter and her husband joined us for a few days. We booked a tour to Canyon X in Antelope Canyon. The tour group is relatively new, so it was easier to get a booking. It seems that most tourists come to Page for just a few days to see Antelope Canyon. The tour was relaxed and our guide was personable. We got some amazing photos. Here are just a couple.

Our tour was an hour and a half, so we wanted to fill the day. Next on the tourist tick list is Horseshoe Bend on the Colorado River. It’s a 15-minute walk from the parking lot on the side of the main highway south of Page.

To get a good view of the river, you need to get quite close to the huge drop-off, which wasn’t a problem for the young people. We saw recent construction of a viewing platform with a wire security fence. Hopefully a person will still be able to climb out on the rocks if they choose when the project is complete.

For the afternoon, we drove north into Utah and visited the toadstools. There’s a rough path up to the main group of toadstools. We then wandered around and worked our way back to the parking lot.

The next day, we drove back into Utah to Wire Pass trail. The trail follows a wash, goes through a slot canyon and joins Buckskin Gulch. We walked both directions in Buckskin Gulch until the water was too deep.

A short hike right in Page is to the “Hanging Garden.” Water seeps from between the sandstone layers and provides an environment for maidenhair ferns. It’s quite a contrast from the dry rocky terrain just metres away.

Yellow Rock is a favourite place, so we wanted to return. Back in 2015, Wendy hiked up with her quilt in the bottom of her backpack for a photo shoot. The patterns and colour in the rock fascinate us.

The hike to Yellow Rock was short, so we combined it with walking into Lower Hackberry canyon. We changed into our water shoes and enjoyed the cool water and shade.

We did get a little bit of birding done as well. This loggerhead shrike posed on the fence beside a road we were exploring. Our campsite seemed to be one of the best spots. Yellow-rumped warblers flittered in the tree, but their quickness and the leaves made it difficult to get a good photo.

We enjoyed our visit to Page, and there are still interesting things that we missed doing. Next stop is in the Sedona area.

When we were in the St. George area last year, we checked out Sand Hollow State Park, which is about a half an hour southeast of St. George. We made reservations in December for a full service site on the outside of the loop. The site (#18) was ideal for us, with a view of the lake (reservoir) on one side and a panorama of mountains on the other. The sites are also well spaced out.

Nearby to our campsite was a slickrock area known as “the jumping rocks.” The first day we walked there it was cooler than the next Saturday that was full of people, with teenagers jumping off the rocks into the chilly water.

We hiked at Snow Canyon State Park, which is nine miles north of St. George. No chance of snow here; it was named for Lorenzo and Erastus Snow, prominent pioneers. We love the spectacular scenery, especially in the area known as the “Petrified Dunes.”

 

We had a couple of good days biking as well. First we rode at the JEM trail area just above Hurricane. The JEM trail from the lower parking area winds its way up on the edge of a canyon then climbs steadily up through the desert brush environment. It was a fun flowy ride down.

We also rode the Church Rocks loop, which is in the Red Cliffs National Conservation Area. We accessed it from a new highway interchange at Washington Boulevard (Grapevine to Prospector’s to Church Rock loop). Prospector’s has a steep “hike-a-bike” section, but otherwise we were pretty much able to ride everything. If you look at the photos below, the trail is along the top of the rock behind Wendy.

 

We also had time for some birding. We found a great spot in the Red Cliffs Recreation Area, right around the Orson Adams house (a pioneer family of the area). Quail Creek runs right by the house which is a draw for the birds. The cottonwood trees had verdins and yellow-rumped warblers. White crowned sparrows foraged below the scrubby bushes, and a black phobe enjoyed the water’s edge. There is also a good view of the red cliffs.

Being so close to Zion National Park, we just had to go again. We chose to do some birding along the Riverside Walk. Most of the people on our early bus got off before the last stop at the Temple of Sinawava. The 2.2 mile trail is mostly in the shade, so we were well bundled up. We got a good look at some Common Mergansers. A house wren was singing loudly, a posed for enough time for a photo.

On our way back to the Visitor Centre, we chose to get off the bus at the highway intersection (Canyon Junction) and walk back via the Pa’rus trail (1.7 miles). The paved trail follows the Virgin River and allows good views of the Towers of the Virgin.

From one of the pedestrian bridges, we watched a couple of black phobes catching insects.

As we got closer to the campground, the birds were more plentiful. There were lots of western bluebirds and yellow-rumped warblers.

We stayed at Sand Hollow for eight nights. Two bike rides, two hikes and a morning of birding, which means we also had time to relax, read, and Wendy had some time for quilting. We’re learning to slow down a bit and enjoy our time in “Big Red.”

 

 

 

 

We planned our trip to Mesa, Arizona to coincide with a quilt show, and choose the RV park because friends were staying there for the winter. We first thought we would be lazing by the pool most of the day enjoying the warm weather. After some research, we realized there was hiking and mountain biking in the nearby mountains, so although we sat by the pool everyday, we were also very active.

We stayed at Mesa Regal, a RV resort of over 2000 units. Many of the spaces are filled with park model mobile homes with attached “Arizona rooms,” with some spaces for coaches and fifth-wheels. Most residents stay for six months or more, but they have room for short-term visitors as well. Once we navigated the narrow roads and were backed into our site, we were glad we were staying put for a while. The park was a full-scale resort, with large pools in two locations, a restaurant and bar, tennis club, and various activity rooms including a quilting room. It was a very active 55+ community with a full schedule of activities to partake in. We enjoyed sitting by the pool, and if we had been there longer, Wendy would have joined the quilt group that has over 150 members.

The Arizona Quilters Guild annual show “Quilt Arizona!” was at the Mesa Convention Centre, about a 20 minute drive from the RV resort. Wendy was there most of one day; taking in a lecture and having fun perusing the various merchant tables for interesting products and bargains. The quilt below didn’t win any awards, but it is a good example of a quilt in southwest colours. (Finding Turquoise in the Desert by M. Nowacki).

We bought the warthog-like sculpture, (maybe it is a javelina?) at the Mesa Marketplace Swap Meet, which is less of a swap meet nowadays and more of an open-air market with about 900 merchants. It was a “recreational shopping” experience.

There was a great birding area within 15 minutes of our RV park: The Riparian Preserve at Gilbert Water Ranch. Any water in the desert brings birds, and we had a productive morning observing forty-one species, including three that were new to us. Doug got a good photo of a Curve-billed thrasher on its nest in the Sagura cactus. The cacti grove (if you can call it a grove) was at the entrance to the riparian preserve.

We saw more cacti on our hikes. We hiked to the ridge above the popular Wind Cave in Usery Mountain State Park.

The Saguaros were also magnificent on the “Hieroglyphics trail.” The easy trail led to ancient Anasazi petroglyphs (erroneously named hieroglyphics). The feature photo on this blog (you’ll see it if you view the blog on your browser) is a view of the Superstition Mountains taken from the trail.

We also rode our mountain bikes through the cacti on the Hawes loop. Luckily the trail was wide enough that we didn’t get too close to any thorns. The trail was really nice, not very sandy or rocky.

Our next stop was to Boulder City, Nevada. It turned out that there was another quilt show nearby! The Desert Quilters hosted their annual quilt show, “Quilt Las Vegas” in the Henderson Convention Centre, about a half hour from the Canyon Trail RV park where we were staying. So, our morning started with a short mountain bike ride on the Bootleg Canyon trails that we rode to right from our trailer. A quick shower, and Doug dropped Wendy off at the quilt show. There were many amazing quilts, but we chose to post a picture of a “Leaf Me alone to Quilt” because the maker (M. McNelley) had bought the pattern on her trip to Canada.

To top off the day, we saw a sign for a beer festival; so we had to check it out. It was in the city park in the middle of Boulder City. There was a live band, and beer tasting tents and food trucks ringed the park. The photo below shows only a small section of the crowd. Doug enjoyed his sample of amber ale from “Rickety Cricket” a brewery out of Kingman, AZ.

We were also only minutes away from the Henderson Bird Viewing Preserve. (You can check out our post from April 2017 to see our photos from our visit last year.) This year, we saw the same number of species (31), although there were differences. We saw our first Black-crowned night heron. It is a stocky, large-headed heron that rarely extends its neck. The Yellow-headed blackbirds were loud and showing off.

We also got a good look at a family of Double-crested cormorants.

And of course, we had to visit our favourite Nevada brew-pub, Boulder Dam Brewing. It’s a block away from this eclectic antique shop.

Next stop: St. George area, Utah.

Petrified Forest National Park is a day’s drive from Fruita, Colorado en route to Mesa, Arizona. We stayed in the closest campground in Holbrook, Arizona.

We set out the next day for the park. We started at the northern end of the park, which encompasses the “Painted Desert.” The long views were so amazing that it was hard to capture them in a photograph.

Here’s a view from a trail below the Blue Mesa. Petrified wood lay scattered around everywhere.

Some of the petrified logs looked as if they had been spilt for firewood. The signposts explained it well. Think of the petrified wood as a piece of chalk; under pressure, it splits across the grain as if it was cut by a saw.

We’ve seen some good examples of petrified wood over the years; some involving long hikes in remote areas, but no other place had as much petrified wood as in the Petrified Forest National Park. It was all around; huge logs exposed to the elements. The variety of colours depended on the minerals present when the wood changed to stone.

Wendy couldn’t decide which was her favourite log; each had a different variation of colour. The old Route 66 cut through the park, and a rusty old car was appropriately placed (it was hard to believe that it actually died there), but it called for a photo.

We were also close to the “Meteor Crater,” so the next day, we decided to have a look. Although it has been declared a “natural landmark,” it is privately owned, and has been turned into a tourist destination, complete with admission fee, museum, tours and the quintessential gift shop (which you need to walk through to access the washrooms.) The crater itself was impressive and the museum was very informative.

Yes, we had to admit, we were tourists, because nearby was Winslow, Arizona and we had to go. Even before Doug knew there was a park commemorating the lyrics in “Take it Easy” he was interested in visiting Winslow. “Standin on the corner in Winslow, Arizona, Such a fine sight to see, It’s a girl my lord, in a flat deck Ford, slowing down to have a look at me.” We like to believe that the statue is of Jackson Browne, one of our favourite singer songwriters.

We enjoyed our few days enroute to Mesa, seeing things we’d never seen before. In our next post, we travel to the land of cactus.

It happened. We traded in our beloved Arctic Fox trailer for a Redwood fifth wheel. Now we have more space; nothing needs to be stored under the dining room chairs and we can fit all the groceries in the bigger fridge and freezer.

As usual, our trip south this spring was planned before Christmas, with a tentative departure date based on the weather. As it worked out, we chose to leave earlier than planned in order to miss the “wintery mix” forecast. It was sunny on our first two days of travelling (to Missoula, then Idaho Falls). Clouds set in on our drive to Willard Bay, just north of Salt Lake City in Utah. It started snowing big flakes as we broke camp the next day, so it was good that Doug had driven through Salt Lake City traffic a few times before. The snow didn’t really stick to the road much and the traffic was bearable. There was a little bit of snow at Soldier Summit, but as we dropped down, the weather cleared, and the roads were bare. Unfortunately, the showers caught up to us, just as we arrived in Fruita, Colorado.

It cleared up quickly and here is a photo of our new unit at our campsite the next morning at the same state park that we have been in twice before.

On our last blog post in October, we posted a photo of our old, blind golden retriever, Tali in front of the Carbondale city sign. Sadly, we’ve said good-bye to Tali. We’re adjusting to not having a dog after 39 years of “dogship.” So our photo of the sign at James M. Robb Colorado River State Park has a stuffed fox, instead. The fox is also helping us keep true to our “Travels with a Fox” name; the original nomenclature referred to our Arctic Fox trailer. Watch for “Reddy Fox” to appear in future blog posts.

As you can see in the robin photo below, some of the trees have just started budding.

There weren’t as many birds around as on our other trips which were later in April, but the local meadowlark was singing his heart out most of the day.

In the afternoon of the next day, it had warmed up enough for a bike ride. We went to the Kopapelli trailhead and our favorite warm-up loop, “Rustler’s Loop.” Both of us were pleased that we could ride sections that we had trouble with in previous years.

We were itching to hike in the red rocks again, so the next day we headed up Monument Canyon trail. The well-maintained trail is in the Colorado National Monument (which is like a little brother to a national park) and heads towards Independence Monument.

We reached Independence Monument in about an hour. It was too early to have lunch, so we followed a climbers’ trail around the monument. Here’s a view down toward Fruita and Grand Junction.

Instead of retracing our tracks, we followed an “unmaintained” trail through Wedding Canyon down to the trailhead. The trail was in better shape than most of the trails that we hike in the East Kootenays and it was nice to make a loop. Here is a view looking up to the monument from the canyon.

Sunday was a “rain day” which gave us the time to do a bit of cleaning and organizing in the fifth wheel, and for Wendy to get out her sewing machine. The quilters out there will notice that she’s not piecing, just sewing a loop on a towel, but it was a good test of the set-up. That evening we made pizza, testing out the new mini bread maker and our new oven. It was awesome!

We’re on our way to Arizona tomorrow. New blog post soon!

Our trip planning started with Doug’s desire to see the Maroon Bells, near Aspen, Colorado in fall colours. We booked a spot in the closest RV park in Carbondale, about 30 miles from Aspen, for September 28 and 29. The town owned Gateway RV Park is along the river just a short walk away from the town sign. Here’s Tali posing.

The Maroon Bells are two peaks in the Elk Mountains and are one of the most photographed mountains in the United States. They are composed of metamorphic sedimentary mudstone that gives the Bells a distinctive maroon colour. The rock is downsloping, loose, rotten and unstable, but we had no intention of doing any climbing. It’s a really popular area, since the peaks are easily viewed within a few steps of the end of the road. A bus service runs from 8 am to 5 pm from mid-June to the end of September to deal with the volume of people.

We left most of the tourists at Maroon Lake and started our hike to Crater Lake, (1.8 miles up the valley) and caught some glimpses of blue sky. The weather was unsettled, however and soon we donned our rain gear to protect us from the wind and hail.

 

This grey jay took advantage of a puddle on a rock to get a drink.

 

We reached Crater Lake in just over an hour and took more photos of the Bells.

On our return trip, it rained hard enough for us to take out our umbrellas, but it was short-lived. It was beautiful hiking through the aspen forest.

 

By the time we were back to the meadow above Maroon Lake (just a few minutes from the bus stop) the sun was shining on the aspens. Doug was satisfied that he had seen the Maroon Bells with fall colours, even though it was more crowded and less of a wilderness experience than he first envisioned.

 

We saw all sorts of people on the trail, some that looked like they’d hiked before and others that looked like they walked off a city street. It was a moderate trail, but was fairly high (Crater Lake was just over 10 000 feet) and the weather changed quickly. It made us wonder if the people who bought the t-shirt with the slogan, “I survived Crater Lake” bought it for a joke or because they’d had a less than enjoyable experience.

Back in Carbondale, we visited the Roaring Fork tasting room in the historic district. Doug had a Triple IPA and Wendy enjoyed their Oktoberfest ale.

 

The next day we headed north on the 15 to Wyoming. About nine hours from Carbondale, we were in Buffalo, Wyoming. We stayed at the aptly named “Deer Park RV park” and watched the deer nibble grass in the playground. The turkeys wandered through in the morning.

 

One more day got us to Missoula, then home the next day. So if you are reading this in real time, you’ll know we’ve been back for over a month. (It’s so hard to write about a vacation when we’re home.) We’ve made reservations for next spring’s trip already. So until then….

Our drive from Durango, Colorado to Taos, New Mexico was about five hours through rolling countryside and over the Continental Divide. We actually drove through Taos and up the Taos Canyon to Angel Fire Resort. That meant pulling the trailer through the narrowest section of the historic downtown and up the winding road, but Doug was up to the challenge and did fine. Here’s a photo of the narrow street, taken the next day.

The Angel Fire RV Resort is part of the Angel Fire Ski and Summer Resort and is the most impressive RV park we have ever stayed in. The large sites are paved with an expanse of grass. The clubhouse, gatehouse and bathhouse are all decorated in a western lodge style. Here are some photos of a couple of mirrors; one is in the clubhouse hallway, the other in the bathhouse lobby. The bottom photo is the fireplace in the clubhouse lobby.

We had long views to the mountains around and heard elk bugling most nights. Here’s a photo of one evening sky with billowing clouds. (No rain that night)

The Rio Grande River Gorge near Taos flows in a rift valley. The gorge was not formed by water like many of the canyons that we have visited, but rather by two continental plates shifting. There is a beautiful bridge that spans the gorge that allowed us a brief glimpse of the gorge when we first crossed it with the trailer. We went back with just the truck to get a closer view.

The day before, we found a bike trail a little farther down the gorge appropriately called “Rift trail.” It was full of flowy dirt tracks interspersed with “not-too-rocky” downhills and wash crossings. Wendy was especially excited at being able to stay on her bike the whole route, now that her hand and concussion were fully healed and she had adapted to the altitude. The views near the edge were fantastic.

We also had to do the typical tourist stuff while in the Taos area. We visited the Taos Pueblo, the oldest continuously inhabited community in the United States. Many of the homes now operate as shops, with the shopkeepers living in regular houses outside the pueblo and only living in the ancient adobe homes for special occasions. We were more interested in buying products that we knew were made from the shopkeepers or their family, rather than imported from outside the area.

The bottom right photo is of an oven that they still use for feast days. Once the oven is hot, they burn cedar to get a high heat to bake biscuits and cookies.

That same day seemed to have an architectural theme, because we also visited the Earthship Biotecture Visitor Centre. Taos is their world headquarters for homes that are built with natural and recycled materials and include thermal/solar heating and cooling, water harvesting, contained sewage treatment, solar and wind electricity and food production, all with a funky style. Photos right to left: Visitor Centre: “standard” Earthship; greenhouse along front of house; wall in front of yard to allow the back to be in the earth and the front to have sunlight.

The only Earthship that you were allowed to enter was the Visitor Centre. We took a drive to try and get a better look at the other homes. They don’t allow you to drive on to their property (understandably), so this view is with a telephoto lens from the highway. They were all very unique.

Even the brewpubs we visited had interesting architecture. Taos Mesa Brewing had a labyrinth in front and a bandstand made with “Earthship” techniques in the back. They had live music most nights; some free, some with an entrance fee. The Enchanted Circle Brewing Company in Angel Fire was made to look like an adobe home.

It rained on and off for the last day we were in the area. Luckily there was an Environmental Film Festival at the community auditorium. We saw Coral Reef Adventure (amazing photography, made originally for IMAX) and Groundswell, a surfing/environmental project filmed on the BC coast. Somehow it seemed to be fitting to watch ocean movies on a rainy day in the South West. Back in camp that afternoon, Wendy set up her sewing machine, and cutting and ironing boards in the expansive clubhouse and sewed a small handbag. She had the whole place to herself.

The plan of this September trip was to get to Colorado to catch the fall colours. The fall colours around Taos and Angel Fire were also great – a bonus for us. Next blog post will describe what we saw near Aspen, Colorado.

Most tourists who come to Durango take a ride on the Durango and Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad, but we watched it from our RV park instead. The train whistle blew in the morning and again in the evening as it passed Alpen Rose RV, just ten minutes north of town. We came for the mountain biking, fall colours, and craft breweries and we were not disappointed.

We rode trails in Horse Gulch that are accessed from town. If you looked in one direction, you might think you were in wilderness, yet just around the corner the trail overlooks the highway.

We’d heard about a great bike ride in Aztec, New Mexico (45 minutes south of Durango) called Alien Run. It was a great trail in its own right, but was made more interesting by being located right by a suspected UFO landing site. The developers have used the alien theme throughout their signage. There’s even a plaque at the site explaining the 1948 event.

The trail had lots of nice “flowy” bits on dirt, some interesting slickrock and a “hike-a-bike” section.

 

While we were in Aztec, we went to the Aztec Ruins National Monument. The ruins were misnamed when they were first discovered by the Anglo settlers. They were not built by the Aztecs, but by ancestral Pueblo people, from the late 1000s to the late 1200s. It was amazing to us to see the size of the great kiva and the number of other kivas and rooms. Here is a view of a portion of the ruin and one of Doug standing below a doorway that was built on a corner, something we had never seen in other ruins.

Between our mountain biking days, we took a road tour north on Highway 550, “the million dollar highway.” The passes on the highway north to Silverton are over 10,000 feet, and the aspen were just beginning to turn yellow. (We took the featured image on the website version of this blog at Molas Pass, about half an hour north of Durango.)

Although there isn’t a lot of fall colour in the photo below, we loved the contrast that Red Mountain gives to the scene.

Silverton was founded in 1874 and has kept its historic feel. It reminded us a bit of Dawson City, Yukon with its paved main street and gravel side streets.

After an amazing pizza and excellent beers at the Golden Block Brewery in Silverton, we continued north to Ouray, which is known as the “Switzerland of America.” Most of the buildings were built between 1880 and 1900. We tasted some brews on the upper deck of Ouray Brewery and took in the view. The photo on the right is of Ouray from the overlook above town.

And of course, we visited craft breweries in Durango. Our favourite was Animas. We had a very tasty appetizer there that they call ABC nachos, which was described as “crispy river chips topped with fresh corned beef, beer kraut, scallions and topped with cheddar sauce.”

At the end of the week, Wendy took her sewing machine and projects to Durango Quilt Company’s “Open Sew Friday.” She couldn’t believe it when an “almost local” fabric and pattern designer and former owner of the quilt shop in Delores, Virginia Robertson walked in. Virginia had a new pattern that she wanted to field test before final publication and offered it to any takers. So of course, Wendy put away what she was working on and jumped right in. She learned a new way of doing hand applique and had good conversations with fellow quilters.

Doug had no problem finding things to do on his own, which included another bike ride in the Sale Barn Canyon and Big Canyon area. We had a day for shopping, lunch and a brewpub stop, before we left for Taos, New Mexico. New adventures next post!