We travelled to Belize and Guatemala on the last two weeks of January as a celebration of our fiftieth wedding anniversary last August. This post is about the first two days that we had on our own in Belize City, before our birding tour began. It includes more photos of meals than usual, so you might not want to read it on an empty stomach.
Doug enjoyed his meal on the flight from Dallas/Ft. Worth to Belize City. Here’s his view as the plane approached the airport in Belize.


We stayed at the Ft. George Hotel. Our room was on the fifth floor on the far left (curtains open) in the photo below.

Here’s the view from our hotel room window. We could birdwatch from the window, and saw Royal Terns, Laughing Gulls and a Reddish Egret along with numerous Brown Pelicans.

This is a photo of an aerial view poster of the section of Belize City where we stayed. The tower of the Fort George Hotel is on the right, The lighthouse in the middle and the Belize sign along the shore on the left. Just past the water taxis, on the shoreline with the red roof, is Martha’s Cafe which is featured later in this post.

We were lucky to find a time when the Belize sign was uncrowded. The letters are about 2 metres (6 feet) high.

When we were planning for the trip, Doug decided that he really wanted to have a good look at a Morelet’s Seedeater. We had previously seen them along the Rio Grande in Texas, but we had brief and distant views. He was very excited when the seedeaters were foraging just below the sea wall. He took the photo of the little bird with his cell phone. Throughout the trip, we saw about forty of this species and they were included in eleven checklists, so they were a pretty common bird, but it was a good start to the trip.


We had one “special” dinner to celebrate our 50th (again!) on our first day in Belize at the fancy restaurant at the Fort George Hotel. Doug enjoyed a snapper fillet with truffle mashed potatoes and Wendy had pepper crusted Ahi tuna. For breakfast, we ate in the glass ceilinged section of the same restaurant (The Tree House.)


That afternoon, we walked to Martha’s Cafe, just past the Belize sign. We saw a Cinnamon Hummingbird on the way, and it was the only time we saw that species on the trip, so the iPhone photo will have to do.

This Green Iguana hung out on a wharf near to shore. It was over a metre (40″) long.

At 4:30 in the afternoon, we had the choice of tables at Martha’s Cafe. We enjoyed the local Belikin beer on that night and on several occasions throughout our trip. It was standard practise to drink from the refillable bottle, which was cleaned then presented with a napkin cover.

We finished our dinner just as the sun was setting, so we had time to walk back to our hotel before it got completely dark.

We enjoyed our dinner so much we chose to go back to Martha’s Cafe for breakfast. We ordered a typical Belizean breakfast that included scrambled eggs with vegetables mixed in, refried black beans, fruit (cantalope, watermelon, papaya, or mango), and Johnny cakes (like a baking powder biscuit). We didn’t really realize that we would be eating something similar for the rest of the trip. Luckily, we enjoyed it and all the variations we were served.

We ate on the porch of Martha’s Cafe. Here’s what the interior looks like.

Since we had arrived a day early for our birding tour, we arranged to go to the Belize Zoo on our extra day. Here is Wendy with our guide, Cairo at the entrance. The Belize Zoo was founded in 1983 by Sharon Matola who was left with some wild animals that that she had been caring for that were part of a natural history documentary. She decided to start a zoo. It has become a wildlife rescue, rehabilitation and education faculty. It was about a forty-five minute drive from our hotel.

The signs are quirky and most of them explain why the animal is at the zoo, while others focus on how important it is to protect wildlife. All the animals in the zoo have been rescued, orphaned, injured or abandoned and are native to Belize.

Here’s a spider monkey. We saw many of this species throughout our trip, but these were the closest. Spider monkeys move through the forest by swinging, while howler monkeys climb.

The jaguar is the iconic mammal in Belize, but they are very difficult to see in the wild. This old cat is blind in one eye and didn’t seem to mind the people passing on the path in front of him.

We may never see a Harpy Eagle in the wild, but they had two at the zoo. It is a massive bird of prey and lives in mature forest in specific areas of Central and South America.

The zoo was also a great place to see wild birds. Since the trails criss-crossed throughout the jungle habitat there was more opportunity to be closer to a bird. Below is a Great Kiskadee, which we saw or heard over a dozen times in our time in Belize and Guatemala, but this was the best photo that Doug obtained of the species. Its “kis-ka-dee” call is loud and distinctive.

Another bird that we saw frequently throughout the trip was the Gray Catbird. Gray Catbirds spend the summer in many parts of the US and Canada (including around our community in British Columbia). They don’t sing when they’re in their winter home, but they do make a cat-like sound: “MeeUrr.” They like to hide in thick undergrowth so this view at the zoo was one of our best of the trip.

We saw over forty Brown Jays throughout our tour. They have a raucous call, “kleer, Kleer, kleer” and are often in groups. These wild Brown Jays at the zoo seemed to be used to being around people.

This is a female Yellow-throated Euphonia, a tiny tropical finch. There was a male nearby, and our guide was surprised that they were the same species, because the male’s plumage is so bold with a dark blue top and bright yellow underside.

If you look really closely, you can see a tiny bit of pink on this male Rose-throated Becard. This species is one that we have seen in Arizona and in Texas, but they are usually high up in the canopy, so seeing this one so close was a treat. The rainforest birds of this species are dark slaty gray and may not show a pink throat patch, making them look appreciatively different from the ones we have seen in Arizona.

We saw many warblers throughout the trip that spend their winters in the tropics. American Redstarts seemed to be everywhere, and we saw or heard over fifteen individuals in the two weeks. This male at the zoo was probably the most cooperative however. The American Redstart is not actually red, but it’s named after a similar European species that has a redder tail.

Black-and-White Warblers are rare in Arizona and never get to our place in BC, so we were excited to see this one at the zoo. This species also was quite common in the other locations that we birded, although we never got bored of watching its “trunk-creeping” behaviour.

Our guide, who was not a birder, was really good at finding birds and he pointed out this one to us. It was the first Hooded Warbler that we had ever seen. We saw and heard them as many times as the Black-and-White over the length of the trip, but this view might have been one of the best. Hooded Warblers like to forage in the undergrowth and lower foliage; flitting around, making a photo difficult.

We also saw and heard a Spot-breasted Wren, another life bird. It was really near the trail and we saw it through our binoculars, but sadly, no photo. We heard their distinctive call many times during the rest of the trip, but we never got as good a look as the one in the zoo. So if you are a birder with some free time in Belize City, the zoo is a great place. Actually anyone who appreciates wildlife would find it interesting.
This blog (January in Belize: Part 1) recounts our first two days in Belize. We expect there will be three more for Belize and two or three for Guatemala, to be posted soon.















































































































































































































































































































